The chef behind Sydney's legendary Darley Street Thai and Sailor's Thai runs successful restaurants around the world including Nahm in London and Bangkok, and Long Chim, in Singapore as well as Perth. He's just returned to Sydney, opening a Long Chim in Angel Place. See longchimsydney.com

FAVOURITE TABLE

Anywhere on the streets, because it's there Bangkok is at its culinary democratic best. Everybody who visits and lives in Bangkok finds themselves on the streets eating well often. And you'll find me there too, eating with the best of them. An oyster omelette, say, or some mind-snappingly spicy squid stir-fried with green peppercorns and holy basil or a more gentle, assuaging noodle.

LOCAL FOOD DISCOVERY 

Hands down sand ginger (brao horm in Thai). It's in season at the moment in Bangkok. A cardamom-like cousin of our regular rhizome ginger, it's peppery pungent and both the leaves and roots are used fresh and dry. In Bangkok, we are enjoying this newfound gem in a catfish curry with green peppercorns, Thai basil and deep fried shallots.

BEST-KEPT FOOD SECRET

The local markets, in particular Or Tor Kor market  (Thanon Kamphaengphet). It is modernised, slightly sanitised but is full of soul and sustenance and filled with fresh produce, fish, seafood and meat, and the most beguiling array of fruits and vegetables, jackfruits, mangoes, lychees and custard apples, basil, tamarind and melons, all tender and ripe and ready to eat.

MUST-TRY DISH

Apsorn's Kitchen, also known as Krua Apsorn is a wonderful food experience in Bangkok. It's located in the northern older part of the city, not too far away from the Vimanmek palace. It's an unprepossessing place, bright, neon-lit and functional but it is full of Thais. I always try to get there when I am in Bangkok. They speak little English but there is an English version of the menu that contains some gems. I believe they have the best crab stir fried in curry powder,  and the deep-fried kingfish with green mango and the yellow curry with prawns and lotus shoots, clear, tart and spicy, is an exemplary lesson in honed balance. You'll have to get there early to get this curry but it's worth the effort. I also like the stir-fried pork with oyster sauce and crunchy garlic.

FAVOURITE INDULGENCE 

Eating on the streets. It is an everyday event for me, but for those reading this it's an indulgence and the best way to eat and experience Thai food in Bangkok. Thais are obsessed with food. If they are not eating, they are preparing it, buying or asleep, dreaming of it. Yet it is one of the great paradoxes of Thailand that though there is great food and excellent markets, you can sometimes be hard-pressed to find a great Thai restaurant. Strange I know, but it's one of the lamentations of those who live in the city. 

A BIG NIGHT OUT

There's a fantastic trendy bar in Chinatown, Tep Bar or Smalls down on Suan Phluu or for the truly louche, and as last port of call, Wongs on Sathorn 1.

BEST TIME TO VISIT

The rain can be dampening, the heat torrid in the hot season, so the cool season is best and that's from November to February. But no matter what, the food is always good throughout the year.